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Iiyama is a small country town that has managed to retain its rural characteristics and lifestyle despite the relatively recent addition of a Shinkansen bullet train station, making it extremely accessible at just over two hours from Tokyo.

Known among Japanese bicycle enthusiasts as a hidden gem, Iiyama offers quaint farming hamlets, rice fields, forests, rivers, and mountain views, all within a relaxing twenty-kilometer bike ride on small, less-trafficked roads. Following the Chikuma River, the valley is wide open with expansive views against a mountain backdrop, featuring constantly changing scenery depending on the season.

Starting in spring, meters of snow may still remain on the roadsides, juxtaposed against the cherry blossoms—a rare scene in Japan. As the snow melts and the blossoms fall, the first signs of fresh green undergrowth appear in the form of wild foraged vegetables and young budding leaves on the trees.

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As spring gives way to the rainy season, the green grows lush, and colors deepen while the valley is shrouded in mist. The views (and the promise of a soak in the hot spring) may make you wish the rain will never stop.

As the rainy season ends, the mountainsides are soon awash with yellow nanohana flowers, and the annual nanohana festival draws visitors from across Japan to enjoy the weather, fresh air, and open skies.

With the summer sun also comes the heat, but not without summer breezes not found in the lower, more urban areas of Japan. The rice in the paddies grows taller, lusher, greener. Farmers are busy tending to their fields but usually not too busy to take a break for a chat with riders.

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As summer comes to a close, the rice fields turn from their verdant green to a deep golden hue, and the stalks begin to bow heavily, awaiting their impending harvest. It won't be long until the mountainsides are abuzz with harvester combines, and farmers are hanging the rice on racks as if their goal is to create the perfect photo opportunity of country life in Japan.

Enter Autumn. The rice harvest is finished, and some rice may remain on the racks to dry, but the beauty of the rice fields is replaced by the changing leaves that steal the show. The wide-open expanse of the valley provides a perfect vantage point to see the colors crawl down the mountainside day by day. Into November, it is not uncommon to find a dusting of fresh snow on the mountaintops, even as the trees in the base of the valley are just beginning to turn red.

All the biking was great, but it was really nice having such a long ride with such beautiful scenery that did not involve all the hills and still had almost no cars.

I don't understand why it is such a small city. It's so beautiful. Back home someplace so beautiful would be prime real estate.

Those yelllow (nanohana) flowers were amazing. I took way to many photos there but I just couldn't helpt it.

After Kyoto I thought I was all templed-out, but the ones here were really nice. I chanaged my mind.

The ski jump was really cool! I bet I could do it, but my mom probably wouldn't let me.

I really wonder how much the fire insurance costs for that alter road. They were so intricate and beautiful, but some of those cost more than my car.

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Some people are born with a unique skill to capture the essence of a moment in song or a painting. While it is not uncommon for a photograph to bring one to tears, it is much less common to find a talent as rare as that of Takahashi Mayumi.

What began as a hobby, her skills as a doll maker are only surpassed by her innate ability to capture the essence and feeling of the life around her. While many think of the trees and nature as the beauty of the countryside, Takahashi's dolls depict the beauty of life that differentiates the village from raw nature, and the slow, yet emotional life of its people from the fast-paced life of urban Japan.

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Despite being a small museum, it is one of the most visited attractions in the city, with people coming from across Japan specifically to visit. It's not uncommon to find elderly Japanese visitors weeping with nostalgia in front of the simple scenes meticulously arranged to evoke the warmth of the irori hearth, but also the memories of that particular cold winter afternoon sharing an orange with grandma, or the rainy afternoon grandpa brought the umbrella to school because you had left it at home.

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With attention to detail that highlights what most of us who live in the countryside tend to overlook, each diorama not only tells an individual story that we can all relate to, but also tells a broader story about life in rural Japan and in the snow country. A story that is fast fading away but still has a place in our hearts.

We will do our best to convey the context of what each piece means and its place in rural life in Japan.

The dolls are amazing! So much attention to detail. I really wish I could buy one to take home.

I didn't realize how impressive it was until we were riding the next day and I started to see things so similar to the scenes the dolls depicted.

I understand why you said Japanese people cry. I don't even share the cultural references, but I could feel the feeling they showed. It made me think of visting my grandmother and I almost cried too.

Wow. That (Mayumi Takahashi) is one talented lady.

I's like a Japanese Normal Rockwell, but somehow better.

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Nestled in the mountains of Japan's Snow Country, Nozawa Onsen Village is a picturesque hot-spring town with a rich history dating back to 1272 during the Kamakura period. Despite its evolution into a renowned ski resort, Nozawa Onsen has maintained the intimate charm of a small, traditional village, cradled by the natural constraints of its mountainous surroundings.

Stroll through Nozawa’s narrow, winding streets dressed in a yukata robe to explore its tranquil shrines, and local shops. The village atmosphere is perfect for leisurely exploring and soaking up the local culture. Try making your own onsen-tamago, a delicacy where eggs are slow-cooked in the hot spring waters, as you enjoy a relaxing foot bath with views of the sunset.

Take a bath in one of more of the villages's 14 public "soto-yu" hot-spring bathhouses. Each bathhouse has its own character and therapeutic benefits, offering a unique experience for visitors to immerse themselves into the deep-rooted centuries old communal onsen culture.

See a special pool, known as Ogama - "the kitchen of Nozawa Onsen" - offers a unique perspective on how locals integrate the hot spring resources into everyday life by using the hot spring waters to wash and boil Nozawana greens, vegetables, and eggs - some of which will be on your dinner and breakfast plates.

Nearby shops and stalls offer an opportunity to try locally grown seasonal delicacies and bamboo dumplings cooked in the mineral-rich waters, distinctly flavored by the unique properties of the hot springs.

Nozawa Onsen even has a unique bath dedicated to doing laundry, that the locals (and visitors) swear by.

Many visitors make it a goal to visit as many of the baths as they can, but The small winding streets, shrines and shops provide a great atmosphere to wander in your yukata robe, try the baths, or simply cook your own onsen-tamago egg whilst watching the sunset from a foot-bath.

There is even a small bath dedicated to doing your laundry.

It felt a bit weird walking around town in a bathrobe, but when we saw everyone was doing it, it was actually a lot of fun. I wish we could do that in our town!

Like a hidden gem! I had heard the name for skiing, but never thought to go there in summer. This might have been one of the best destinations of the trip.

The water in the smaller baths was HOT!. Still, the kids had a great time trying to see which could get in the furthest. They are still talking about it.

Even though I am not usually a huge fan of boiled eggs, there was something really nice about just sitting there soaking our feet as we ate them. I wish we had just sat there a bit longer, even though the sun had gone down.

I thought you were joking about doing laundry in that bath until that little old lady walked up and unloaded a basket of clothes. Too bad I was afraid to take photos because what if it was her underwear?

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Iiyama, often referred to as “The Kyoto of Northern Nagano,” features numerous small temples scattered throughout the city. Unlike Kyoto, Iiyama maintains its charm as a small country town, with temples only crowded during local festivals. This makes it the perfect place to enjoy peace, tranquility, beauty, and architecture as you stroll or cycle from temple to temple along a well-marked path.

Beyond its temples, Iiyama is one of the three regions in Japan famed for selling and refurbishing elaborately crafted, gold-leafed butsudan altars. These altars are treasured heirlooms, passed down through generations in many Japanese homes. While visiting, take time to admire the exquisite craftsmanship in the specialty shops lining the streets. The knowledgeable shopkeepers can answer questions about the altars or Buddhism, and hands-on craft projects using gold leaf are available for those who are interested.

At the end of Butsudan Alley, you'll find the Takahashi Museum of Doll Art, one of Iiyama's most beloved attractions. The museum showcases beautifully crafted dolls that depict cultural details and nuances, providing insight into the joys and hardships of rural life in Japan.

Whether you opt for a guided tour with a local or choose to explore on your own, Iiyama offers a serene and historically rich experience, ideal for those looking to immerse themselves in the cultural heritage of Northern Nagano.

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Ikesho Minshuku in Nozawa Onsen offers a traditional Japanese inn experience that embodies warmth and simplicity. Immerse yourself in the culture of this historic hot-spring town through a stay that goes beyond just lodging.

The host, who took over the inn from his parents, is a professionally trained chef who skillfully melds modern and traditional culinary techniques. His exquisite meals, crafted from locally sourced ingredients, receive high praise from both visitors and locals alike.

Unique for its absence of in-house bathing facilities —a traditional trait for the area— Ikesho Minshuku honors the communal spirit of Nozawa Onsen. Guests are encouraged to explore the village's 13 public baths, including the renowned "Kuma-no-Te-Araiyu," conveniently located just steps away.

Ikesho Minshuku is more than a place to stay; it's a gateway to a culturally rich experience that beckons guests back time and again. Discover exceptional local hospitality and culinary excellence on your visit.

Upon arrival, you will be shown to your room and change into your stylish cotton yukata robe and sit down on the straw tatami floors to relax with hot tea and a local sweet as we look over the map and plot our plan of action before heading out to stroll the town in our robes.

Watch A short video previous One Life Japan guests made about the Minshuku Ikesho.

I loved the little fire pit (kotatsu and irori) where they grilled the fish, we had not seen that before in the city.

I don't speak Japanese, but when I told the locals in the bath where we were staying, I could tell that were raving about how great the food is. And it was delicious both in the evening and at breakfast.

The lovely woman and her husband were always smiling, making it a delightful place to stay. They paid so much attention to every little thing to make sure everything was perfect for us.

It feels like visiting a stylish country home rather than just an inn. I was suprised that it, even though it's in the middle of Nozawa's hot spring town, it has no bath of its own, but wasn't a problem. The best hot spring, Kuma-no-Te-Araiyu, is just a minute's walk from the inn. I could go there again and again - but it was really hot ;). And the food is simply irresistible. It has a warmth that mass-produced, sterile restaurant food just can't match.

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Nestled on the mountainside in the Chikuma River Valley is the small village of Uchiyama, known throughout Japan for its superior handmade shoji door paper since the Edo period. The washi paper, with its pure, strong, and translucent quality, is also traditionally used for Japanese arts such as origami, shodo, ukiyo-e, as well as everyday goods like paper doors, specialty stationery, and even clothing.

What makes this region's paper unique is that it takes advantage of one of Japan's 100 purest water sources, and the abundant snow and long winters for a technique known as "Yukisarashi," allowing the sun's UV rays and the snow's moisture to naturally bleach the fibers without chemicals.

Here, visitors can observe and experience the process firsthand. The paper crafter at this shop has been diligently working on her English so that she can properly explain the historical and cultural significance of paper craft in Japan, and what makes this paper so special.

While waiting for your own creation to dry, the scenic mountainside hamlet offers an ideal location for a slow stroll, discussions on the art of rice farming, and plenty of beautiful photo-ops of quiet rural life in Japan.

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While many Japanese supermarkets resemble modern supermarkets in the West to some degree, there are plenty of small differences and quirks possibly unique to Japan. This supermarket adventure will give you an opportunity to explore as a real shopper as we shop for our night's dinner.

We will give you a shopping list, with Japanese pronunciation with which you will have to ask one of the attendants if you can night find the item yourself, and of course you will be free to challenge yourself with any strange food that you might never have thought you would be brave enough to eat.

The children usually love the candy and snack isle, where they can load up for their rest of the time in Japan, as well as bring unique gifts back to their friends.

Fans of Japanese cooking at home can find a larger variety of miso, soy sauce, etc to take home for your own kitchen.

Beer lovers will be invited to try a blind beer taste test at dinner with brews that I will choose from the many colorful cans and bottles. We can also try some plum wine and or sake, chu-hi, or any other Japanese beverages.

Finally you can spy on the other shoppers' baskets to see what typical shoppers buy for their families. It is very different than the high-class food courts you will find in the department stores in large cities.

Nozawa Onsen - Michi-no-eki - Kamisukiya - (23 km)

Optional Route

Kamisukiya - Chikuma Michi-no-eki - Yutaki Onsen - (16 km)

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Sunberry is not an inn. It is more than just a place to stay — it's a place to live the farm life, learn about sustainable practices, and reconnect with nature. It is the home of a local farmer and his wife, who are eager to share a glimpse into their lifestyle, providing an intimate and authentic countryside experience.

The house is nestled in Japan's picturesque snow country where in winter snow is regularly two to three meters deep. In later winter or early spring they will being the harvest of their sought after "snow carrots" dug from under meters of snow.

Later spring brings foraging for wild vegetables, and rice field preparation which you will be invited to join in, along with a variety of traditional activities, from rice planting and harvesting to berry picking and vegetable gathering.

In summer, tending to the fields, havesting summer vegetables, and joining in local festivals are a great way to spend the days.

In Autum, Sunberry is a perfect gateway to the beautifully remote Akiyama Valley, which literally means "autum mountain". It is the perfect place for a walk, bike ride, or if lucky to join a wild mushroom foraging adventure.

The host is a professional dye crafter, happy to share her experience with plant-based dyeing, hand weaving, and baking with natural yeast. For those seeking a bit of tranquility in their Japan adventure, simple beech forest therapy walks offer a peaceful escape, while winter activities like snow shoveling, snow shoeing, and just sitting next ot the fire add a touch of adventure to your stay.

Meals are simple, home-cooked, including the flavors of the land, crafted from home-grown ingredients, including natural yeast bread and homemade jams, complemented by a selection of specialty highland vegetables. Each dish showcases the purity and freshness of the farm's own produce.

Eating dinner with them felt like visiting a distant relative's home, and the hearing about their life and the heavy snow was fascinating.

I can't believe they woke up early just to bake us their homemade bread. It was delicious, such a wonderful texture. It felt like staying at a relative's home.

I felt like I was visiting a relative's home. If I ever get a chance to come back, I really want to try the weaving and dying. Her works are so beautiful.

I have had fresh eggs before, but it still was so special knowing they were laid that morning but their own chooks. I wasn't expecting raw egg on rice though. I am a little embarrassed by the mess I made when I tried to crack it ;).

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The scenery and remoteness of the Akiyama valley is the biggest draw for outside visitors making it a secret weekend drive destination. In recent years dedicated cyclists have started to visit to take advantage of the beautiful, winging roads with very little car traffic. It is also popular amongst motorcyclists for the sense of freedom and open road.

The route begins at the highest paved point on Mount Naeba, one of Japan's "100 Famous Mountains", known for both the beauty at the peak (climbing to the top is possible with notification and some adjustment of the itinerary), but also for the quiet remote forest trails and the scenery leading to the summit.

The downhill ride winds down a trailhead access road, along which we can glimpse grand views of other mountains across the valley through the morning mist and trees, and often a wild monkey or two. Passing though some small hamlets, it soon follows a deep turquoise river gradually making the transition from remote valley to expansive rice paddies and farm hamlets.

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Make a short stop at the Tonenbo Center and preserved traditional thatch-roof minshuku (house) showcasing the hardships of mountain life and historical resilience, and how they adapted to the harsh environmental conditions and the recurrent famines documented in this snow-bound region.

The Tonenbo Center, housed in a repurposed old school building, functions as a vibrant cultural hub and museum providing insights into the local customs, including slash-and-burn agriculture, local culinary traditions, and the traditional hunting techniques of the traditional nomadic Matagi hunters that eventually settled in the area.

Just a short walk from the center, a preserved traditional minshuku (house), which stands as a testament to the architectural ingenuity adapted to survive the heavy snowfalls. This minshuku, dating back about 230 years, has been meticulously maintained to exhibit the living conditions during the Edo period, providing a vivid portrayal of historical mountain life and

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Akiyamago's harsh conditions and isolation necessitated that its settlers become skilled woodsmen and craftsmen. Yamagen Woodworking stands as a testament to this enduring art of woodcraft. Founded in 1921, this family-run shop has been crafting exquisite wood products for over a century, harnessing the abundant natural timber of the region - a tradition that has been carefully preserved and passed down through four generations, each dedicated to maintaining the unique skills and techniques that have become rare in modern Japan.

The current owner is a third-generation craftsman, oversees the selection of each piece of timber, ensuring that only the best is used for their wood products. Their shop is a cultural repository, preserving traditional woodworking techniques that have stood the test of time and every piece displays his deep understanding of wood and meticulous attention to detail.

Visitors to Yamagen Woodworking can expect not just the beautiful products but an immersive experience. If we're lucky we can catch one of the twin-brother proprietors, always more than happy to drink tea and share insights over tea about the intricacies of wood, forestry, their craft, and its significant relationship with the valley's history and Japan's broader socio-economic landscape.

The borthers believe in the beauty of wood and the stories it tells. Visit and explore these stories, one crafted piece at a time.

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Located at the entrance to Akiyamago valley, Midama Shrine is renowned for its healing properties, particularly for eye ailments, thanks to its veneration of Fudo Myoo (Immovable Wisdom King). The shrine, steeped in the lore of the Heike clan, provides not only a spiritual respite but also a perfect spot for a leisurely break. Visitors can try in a wide variety of regional tsukemono pickles and relax with a rejuvenating cup of tea made from the bark of the megusuri tree, known for its medicinal properties beneficial to eye health.

Amidst its tranquil surroundings, highlighted by cascading waterfalls and the soothing "Life-Prolonging Water,". Midama Shrine also hosts an annual fire walking ceremony. This ritual, held to purify and bring health and fortune to participants, adds a profound cultural experience for visitors, blending the spiritual with the traditional in a captivating display.

Midama Shrine is not just a site of historical significance; it's a sanctuary where the past and present, nature and culture, come together beautifully, offering visitors a deep connection to Japan's rich heritage and the enduring spirit of its mountain communities.

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Shinanso is a charming hot-spring ryokan nestled quietly along the banks of the Shinano River in a quaint village. The onsen, sourced entirely from natural springs, is affectionately known by locals as the "Silky Beauty Bath." It's prized for its gentle, skin-smoothing waters that seem to warmly embrace you, making it the perfect place to unwind.

As the seasons change, so does the view from the open-air baths. You can soak in the sight of vibrant cherry blossoms in spring or watch the snow gently fall in winter. At Shinanoso, the atmosphere is filled with a sense of nostalgia, with floors softly laid with tatami mats — it feels like coming home. Whether you're seeking solitude or a slice of traditional Japanese ambiance, Shinano Lodge offers a personal retreat into nature’s quiet beauty.

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Making soba noodles by hand under the guidance of a knowledgeable soba teacher in Japan is one of the highlights of everyone’s trip.

Soba, a popular Japanese dish made from simple buckwheat flour and water, is a staple of the Japanese diet, evident in the ubiquity of soba shops across the country, from humble street-side stalls to high-end restaurants. Each region boasts its own variation, reflecting local flavors and traditions, and it is a particularly important part of the culinary heritage of the mountainous regions where the climate was less conducive to rice.

A local soba master will guide you through the process, beginning with the almost ceremonial preparation of the buckwheat dough. The delicate art of mixing, kneading, rolling the dough into a perfect, thin sheet, and the precise cutting into perfectly sized noodles are skills that require patience and a steady hand.

The experience is not just about learning a culinary technique—it's an immersion into a centuries-old tradition, offering a deeper understanding and appreciation of Japanese cuisine.