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The ride from Iiyama to Togakushi through Myoko-Togakushi Renzan National Park is a challenging yet rewarding journey that offers cyclists a mix of natural beauty, cultural immersion, and physical effort. The route starts gently in the town of Iiyama and winds through small hamlets that showcase rural Japanese life, with traditional houses and local shrines.

Cyclists will pass by orchards and fields, changing colors with the seasons. Spring and summer bring lush green, while autumn offers a mix of reds, oranges, and yellows. These scenes, set against mountain views, are a treat for the eyes. As the road climbs, you'll come across Nohiri Lake, where the calm waters reflect the mountains, offering a peaceful break.

The ride gets tougher with steeper inclines and winding roads, but the views and the sense of adventure keep you going. There's no rush, so you can keep a relaxed pace, taking in the scenery. The route ends in Togakushi, known for its natural beauty and the spiritual atmosphere of the Togakushi Shrine.

This ride is a good mix of effort and relaxation, allowing you to enjoy the natural and cultural landscapes of Japan. The hamlets, orchards, mountain views, and Nohiri Lake make this a journey that leaves you feeling both tired and refreshed.

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Nestled in the mountainous region of Nagano Prefecture, Togakushi Shrine is a Shinto site comprised of five distinct shrines: Hokosha (Lower Shrine), Hino-mikosha, Chusha (Middle Shrine), Kuzuryusha, and Okusha (Upper Shrine).

The shrine complex is renowned for its spiritual significance and natural beauty, with each shrine offering a unique atmosphere and connection to the divine. The journey to Okusha, the most famous among them, is particularly notable for the majestic path lined with ancient cedar trees, culminating in a serene and mystical environment.

The walk to the Togakushi Okusha (Upper Shrine) from the main town of Togakushi, approximately 2 kilometers, is famous for its scenic beauty, featuring a path lined with centuries-old cedar trees and vibrant autumn foliage.

Starting Point

The walk typically begins from the main town area near the Togakushi Chusha (Middle Shrine), where visitors often start their pilgrimage. The path to Okusha is well-marked and maintained, guiding visitors through a mix of paved roads and natural trails.

Cedar Tree Path

One of the most iconic segments of this walk is the Cedar Avenue, known as "Zuishinmon Cedar Path." This path is flanked by massive, towering cedar trees, some of which are over 400 years old. These trees form a natural tunnel, creating a serene and majestic atmosphere. The sight of these ancient trees combined with the vibrant autumn leaves makes this stretch particularly breathtaking.

Zuishinmon Gate

Midway through the journey, travelers encounter the Zuishinmon Gate, a traditional wooden gate that marks the boundary to the sacred area leading to the Okusha Shrine. The gate is an important cultural and spiritual symbol, and passing through it signifies entering a place of reverence.

Autumn Foliage

In autumn, typically from mid-October to early November, the path is adorned with a stunning array of colors as the leaves turn shades of red, orange, and yellow. The combination of the vibrant foliage, the towering cedars, and the crisp, cool air makes this walk a memorable and tranquil experience.

Mountain Views and Nature

Along the path, visitors can also enjoy views of the surrounding Togakushi mountain range. The area is rich in natural beauty, with streams, small waterfalls, and diverse plant life enhancing the experience.

Reaching the Okusha Shrine

The path culminates at the Okusha Shrine, located at the foot of Mount Togakushi. The shrine itself is nestled in a dense forest, creating a peaceful and spiritual atmosphere. The journey to the shrine is considered an act of devotion, and the serene setting provides a perfect place for reflection and appreciation of nature.

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The Togakushi Ninja Museum offers an immersive experience and fascinating insight into the history, culture, and techniques of the ninja, particularly those associated with the Togakure school of ninjutsu. This school is one of the oldest and most renowned ninja traditions in Japan.

Ninja House

One of the most popular features of the museum is the Ninja House (Ninjakan), which is designed with various traps, secret doors, and escape routes. Visitors can explore this labyrinth-like structure, experiencing firsthand some of the deceptive and elusive techniques used by ninja. The house provides an interactive way to understand how ninja could navigate and conceal themselves within buildings.

Exhibits on Ninja Tools and Weapons

The museum showcases a wide array of traditional ninja tools, weapons, and clothing. This includes items like shuriken (throwing stars), kunai (dagger-like tools), and various disguises. The exhibits provide detailed explanations of the functions and uses of these tools in espionage, combat, and survival.

Historical Artifacts and Documents

The museum contains historical artifacts and documents related to the ninja, offering insights into their training, missions, and lifestyle. Visitors can learn about the strict discipline and skills required to become a ninja, as well as the role of the ninja in feudal Japanese society.

Ninja Training

The museum often features demonstrations and explanations of ninja techniques, such as stealth walking, climbing, and martial arts. These demonstrations help visitors appreciate the physical and mental training that ninja underwent.

Ninja Village

Adjacent to the museum is the Togakushi Ninja Village (Chibikko Ninja Mura), a family-friendly theme park where visitors, especially children, can participate in various ninja-related activities. The park includes obstacle courses, mazes, and other attractions designed to test agility, balance, and stealth. There are also opportunities for visitors to dress up as ninja, adding to the immersive experience.

Cultural Context

The museum also provides context about the cultural and historical background of the Togakushi area, which has long been associated with mystical and martial traditions. This includes the connection between the ninja and the local Togakushi Shrine, a significant Shinto site.

Optional Route

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Zenkoji Temple, located in Nagano City, is one of Japan's oldest and most revered temples, founded in the 7th century. It has long been a major pilgrimage site, drawing worshippers from all over Japan. The temple is renowned for housing what is believed to be the first Buddhist statue ever brought to Japan, though the original statue is hidden and never shown to the public. Instead, a replica is displayed during a special event called Gokaicho, which occurs every seven years and attracts countless pilgrims.

The temple complex itself is an expansive and beautiful area, comprising a collection of various sub-temples and structures, each with its own unique significance. The main hall, known as the Hondo, is designated a national treasure and is an impressive example of ancient Japanese wooden architecture. The Hondo's interior is dimly lit and serene, offering a tranquil space for prayer and reflection.

In front of Zenkoji, the bustling Nakamise-dori street is lined with small shops and stalls selling local treats and unique items. This lively street is a favorite among visitors, offering everything from traditional sweets and snacks to handcrafted goods and souvenirs. The combination of spiritual depth and cultural vibrancy makes Zenkoji Temple not only a place of worship but also a hub of local life and history, preserving traditions that have been cherished for centuries.

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Obuse is a charming small town in Nagano Prefecture, known for its rich cultural heritage and picturesque scenery. One of the town's main attractions is the Hokusai Museum, which houses an impressive collection of woodblock prints by the famous Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai. This museum offers a unique glimpse into the artistry and techniques of one of Japan's most renowned ukiyo-e masters.

In addition to its cultural offerings, Obuse is also famous for its local winery and brewery, where visitors can taste a variety of fine wines and craft beers. The town's culinary delights include chestnut snacks, a specialty of the region, available in many delightful forms such as pastries and sweets.

Obuse's beautiful small-town scenery is enhanced by its well-preserved traditional architecture and the open gardens that many residents maintain. These gardens, often accessible to the public, showcase meticulously cared-for landscapes and a variety of seasonal flowers. The combination of art, history, and natural beauty makes Obuse a delightful destination for those looking to experience the quaint charm of a traditional Japanese town.

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Shibu Onsen is a historic hot spring town nestled in the mountains of Nagano Prefecture. Renowned for its multiple baths, the town offers visitors a unique opportunity to experience traditional Japanese onsen culture. The air is often filled with the scent of sulfur from the natural hot springs, creating an authentic and soothing atmosphere.

One of the unique aspects of Shibu Onsen is the presence of wild monkeys that sometimes come down from the nearby mountains, adding a touch of nature to the quaint setting. The town is characterized by its small narrow streets, lined with traditional shops that have been operating for generations. These shops offer local crafts, snacks, and souvenirs, preserving the old-world charm of the area.

Visitors can stroll through the town in yukata, visiting the various public baths, each with its own history and unique water properties. This combination of rich culture, natural beauty, and a sense of timelessness makes Shibu Onsen a captivating destination for a relaxing and immersive experience.

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Nestled in a corner of Northern Nagano, the Jigokudani Monkey Park provides an opportunity to see the famous Japanese macaques, also known as "snow monkeys," as they soak in the natural hot springs. The Japanese macaques are the northernmost living primates in the world (that do not wear clothes). The troupe here are also the only ones lucky enough to have their very own hot spring to relax in.

The park was established in 1964, partially as a solution to the unique problem of a few monkeys coming down from the mountains to enjoy the natural public hot springs in the popular Yudanaka and Shibu-onsen resorts. It mainly serves, however, as an open study ground for researchers to study the behavior of these fascinating animals, and the area is currently frequented by a non-captive troupe that returns to the forest each night.

Despite being wild, familiarity with humans makes it possible to walk amongst them and observe their social habits and antics, making it one place you will want to make sure your camera batteries are charged. As their popularity has grown, the park has become one of Japan's most popular off-the-golden-route destinations, and despite its remote and somewhat more difficult access, a recently renovated visitors center makes it more educational, comfortable, and accommodating for foreign visitors.

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Making soba noodles by hand under the guidance of a knowledgeable soba teacher in Japan is one of the highlights of everyone’s trip.

Soba, a popular Japanese dish made from simple buckwheat flour and water, is a staple of the Japanese diet, evident in the ubiquity of soba shops across the country, from humble street-side stalls to high-end restaurants. Each region boasts its own variation, reflecting local flavors and traditions, and it is a particularly important part of the culinary heritage of the mountainous regions where the climate was less conducive to rice.

A local soba master will guide you through the process, beginning with the almost ceremonial preparation of the buckwheat dough. The delicate art of mixing, kneading, rolling the dough into a perfect, thin sheet, and the precise cutting into perfectly sized noodles are skills that require patience and a steady hand.

The experience is not just about learning a culinary technique—it's an immersion into a centuries-old tradition, offering a deeper understanding and appreciation of Japanese cuisine.

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Nestled on the mountainside in the Chikuma River Valley is the small village of Uchiyama, known throughout Japan for its superior handmade shoji door paper since the Edo period. The washi paper, with its pure, strong, and translucent quality, is also traditionally used for Japanese arts such as origami, shodo, ukiyo-e, as well as everyday goods like paper doors, specialty stationery, and even clothing.

What makes this region's paper unique is that it takes advantage of one of Japan's 100 purest water sources, and the abundant snow and long winters for a technique known as "Yukisarashi," allowing the sun's UV rays and the snow's moisture to naturally bleach the fibers without chemicals.

Here, visitors can observe and experience the process firsthand. The paper crafter at this shop has been diligently working on her English so that she can properly explain the historical and cultural significance of paper craft in Japan, and what makes this paper so special.

While waiting for your own creation to dry, the scenic mountainside hamlet offers an ideal location for a slow stroll, discussions on the art of rice farming, and plenty of beautiful photo-ops of quiet rural life in Japan.

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Nestled in the mountains of Japan's Snow Country, Nozawa Onsen Village is a picturesque hot-spring town with a rich history dating back to 1272 during the Kamakura period. Despite its evolution into a renowned ski resort, Nozawa Onsen has maintained the intimate charm of a small, traditional village, cradled by the natural constraints of its mountainous surroundings.

Stroll through Nozawa’s narrow, winding streets dressed in a yukata robe to explore its tranquil shrines, and local shops. The village atmosphere is perfect for leisurely exploring and soaking up the local culture. Try making your own onsen-tamago, a delicacy where eggs are slow-cooked in the hot spring waters, as you enjoy a relaxing foot bath with views of the sunset.

Take a bath in one of more of the villages's 14 public "soto-yu" hot-spring bathhouses. Each bathhouse has its own character and therapeutic benefits, offering a unique experience for visitors to immerse themselves into the deep-rooted centuries old communal onsen culture.

See a special pool, known as Ogama - "the kitchen of Nozawa Onsen" - offers a unique perspective on how locals integrate the hot spring resources into everyday life by using the hot spring waters to wash and boil Nozawana greens, vegetables, and eggs - some of which will be on your dinner and breakfast plates.

Nearby shops and stalls offer an opportunity to try locally grown seasonal delicacies and bamboo dumplings cooked in the mineral-rich waters, distinctly flavored by the unique properties of the hot springs.

Nozawa Onsen even has a unique bath dedicated to doing laundry, that the locals (and visitors) swear by.

Many visitors make it a goal to visit as many of the baths as they can, but The small winding streets, shrines and shops provide a great atmosphere to wander in your yukata robe, try the baths, or simply cook your own onsen-tamago egg whilst watching the sunset from a foot-bath.

There is even a small bath dedicated to doing your laundry.

It felt a bit weird walking around town in a bathrobe, but when we saw everyone was doing it, it was actually a lot of fun. I wish we could do that in our town!

Like a hidden gem! I had heard the name for skiing, but never thought to go there in summer. This might have been one of the best destinations of the trip.

The water in the smaller baths was HOT!. Still, the kids had a great time trying to see which could get in the furthest. They are still talking about it.

Even though I am not usually a huge fan of boiled eggs, there was something really nice about just sitting there soaking our feet as we ate them. I wish we had just sat there a bit longer, even though the sun had gone down.

I thought you were joking about doing laundry in that bath until that little old lady walked up and unloaded a basket of clothes. Too bad I was afraid to take photos because what if it was her underwear?

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Ikesho Minshuku in Nozawa Onsen offers a traditional Japanese inn experience that embodies warmth and simplicity. Immerse yourself in the culture of this historic hot-spring town through a stay that goes beyond just lodging.

The host, who took over the inn from his parents, is a professionally trained chef who skillfully melds modern and traditional culinary techniques. His exquisite meals, crafted from locally sourced ingredients, receive high praise from both visitors and locals alike.

Unique for its absence of in-house bathing facilities —a traditional trait for the area— Ikesho Minshuku honors the communal spirit of Nozawa Onsen. Guests are encouraged to explore the village's 13 public baths, including the renowned "Kuma-no-Te-Araiyu," conveniently located just steps away.

Ikesho Minshuku is more than a place to stay; it's a gateway to a culturally rich experience that beckons guests back time and again. Discover exceptional local hospitality and culinary excellence on your visit.

Upon arrival, you will be shown to your room and change into your stylish cotton yukata robe and sit down on the straw tatami floors to relax with hot tea and a local sweet as we look over the map and plot our plan of action before heading out to stroll the town in our robes.

Watch A short video previous One Life Japan guests made about the Minshuku Ikesho.

I loved the little fire pit (kotatsu and irori) where they grilled the fish, we had not seen that before in the city.

I don't speak Japanese, but when I told the locals in the bath where we were staying, I could tell that were raving about how great the food is. And it was delicious both in the evening and at breakfast.

The lovely woman and her husband were always smiling, making it a delightful place to stay. They paid so much attention to every little thing to make sure everything was perfect for us.

It feels like visiting a stylish country home rather than just an inn. I was suprised that it, even though it's in the middle of Nozawa's hot spring town, it has no bath of its own, but wasn't a problem. The best hot spring, Kuma-no-Te-Araiyu, is just a minute's walk from the inn. I could go there again and again - but it was really hot ;). And the food is simply irresistible. It has a warmth that mass-produced, sterile restaurant food just can't match.

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Kiriake Onsen, found in the remote Akiyamago region of Sakae Village in Nagano Prefecture, offers a unique hot spring experience where visitors can dig their own outdoor bath by the river. This unusual feature allows you to create a custom onsen by mixing the naturally hot, steamy water with the cold river water to achieve the perfect temperature.

The hot spring is nestled in a picturesque setting at the road's end, where two rivers meet, surrounded by stunning natural scenery. It's a truly immersive experience, as you find spots in the riverbed, dig, and build your own bathing space. This open-air onsen is accessible year-round, though the best time to visit is during the fall foliage season when you can soak while enjoying the vibrant autumn colors.

In addition to the outdoor river bath, Kiriake Onsen also offers a more traditional onsen experience with a facility located in a nearby building. This gives visitors the option to enjoy a conventional hot spring bath with amenities like changing rooms, making it convenient for those who prefer a more typical onsen experience.The outdoor bath area allows the use of swimsuits, making it family-friendly and accessible to all.

The surrounding area of Akiyamago is rich in history and natural beauty. The region was famously documented by Suzuki Bokushi during the Edo Period, who detailed its unique practices and culture. Visitors to Kiriake Onsen can also explore the nearby Nunoiwayama cliffs, known for their geological significance and breathtaking views. Whether you're a hot spring enthusiast or an adventurous traveler, the combination of building your own onsen, the serene natural environment, and the local cultural insights make Kiriake Onsen a must-visit destination in Japan.

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Naebaso Mishuku is a charming and historic inn, renowned for its connection to Suzuki Bokushi, the author of the famous travel guide Snow Country Tales: Life in the Other Japan (Hokuetsu seppu). This 300-year-old building, still maintained by the same family, offers guests a unique glimpse into the region's rich history. The current owner, a descendant of bear hunters, continues the tradition by serving dishes like bear meat and wild boar for dinner, providing an authentic taste of local cuisine.

Guests can also savor hayasoba, a traditional soba dish from the region. The inn is just a short walk from a hot spring, making it a perfect retreat for relaxation. The warm, relaxed atmosphere, super cheerful owner, and delicious meals featuring wild vegetables make for an unforgettable stay. Visitors often enjoy fun interactions with other laid-back guests, who are typically hikers or fishermen, adding to the friendly and convivial environment.

Mount Naeba, part of the Joshinetsu Kogen National Park, provides excellent hiking opportunities. The trails range from easy walks to more challenging climbs. The Naeba-Yuzawa Trail offers a moderate hike with beautiful views of the surrounding landscape, including lush green valleys and distant mountains. The summit of Mount Naeba rewards hikers with breathtaking vistas and the chance to see unique alpine plants. During the winter, Naeba is a popular ski destination, but in the summer, it transforms into a hiker's paradise with cool mountain air and vibrant nature.

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Akiyamago's harsh conditions and isolation necessitated that its settlers become skilled woodsmen and craftsmen. Yamagen Woodworking stands as a testament to this enduring art of woodcraft. Founded in 1921, this family-run shop has been crafting exquisite wood products for over a century, harnessing the abundant natural timber of the region - a tradition that has been carefully preserved and passed down through four generations, each dedicated to maintaining the unique skills and techniques that have become rare in modern Japan.

The current owner is a third-generation craftsman, oversees the selection of each piece of timber, ensuring that only the best is used for their wood products. Their shop is a cultural repository, preserving traditional woodworking techniques that have stood the test of time and every piece displays his deep understanding of wood and meticulous attention to detail.

Visitors to Yamagen Woodworking can expect not just the beautiful products but an immersive experience. If we're lucky we can catch one of the twin-brother proprietors, always more than happy to drink tea and share insights over tea about the intricacies of wood, forestry, their craft, and its significant relationship with the valley's history and Japan's broader socio-economic landscape.

The borthers believe in the beauty of wood and the stories it tells. Visit and explore these stories, one crafted piece at a time.

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Make a short stop at the Tonenbo Center and preserved traditional thatch-roof minshuku (house) showcasing the hardships of mountain life and historical resilience, and how they adapted to the harsh environmental conditions and the recurrent famines documented in this snow-bound region.

The Tonenbo Center, housed in a repurposed old school building, functions as a vibrant cultural hub and museum providing insights into the local customs, including slash-and-burn agriculture, local culinary traditions, and the traditional hunting techniques of the traditional nomadic Matagi hunters that eventually settled in the area.

Just a short walk from the center, a preserved traditional minshuku (house), which stands as a testament to the architectural ingenuity adapted to survive the heavy snowfalls. This minshuku, dating back about 230 years, has been meticulously maintained to exhibit the living conditions during the Edo period, providing a vivid portrayal of historical mountain life and

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Located at the entrance to Akiyamago valley, Midama Shrine is renowned for its healing properties, particularly for eye ailments, thanks to its veneration of Fudo Myoo (Immovable Wisdom King). The shrine, steeped in the lore of the Heike clan, provides not only a spiritual respite but also a perfect spot for a leisurely break. Visitors can try in a wide variety of regional tsukemono pickles and relax with a rejuvenating cup of tea made from the bark of the megusuri tree, known for its medicinal properties beneficial to eye health.

Amidst its tranquil surroundings, highlighted by cascading waterfalls and the soothing "Life-Prolonging Water,". Midama Shrine also hosts an annual fire walking ceremony. This ritual, held to purify and bring health and fortune to participants, adds a profound cultural experience for visitors, blending the spiritual with the traditional in a captivating display.

Midama Shrine is not just a site of historical significance; it's a sanctuary where the past and present, nature and culture, come together beautifully, offering visitors a deep connection to Japan's rich heritage and the enduring spirit of its mountain communities.

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Akiyamago's harsh conditions and isolation necessitated that its settlers become skilled woodsmen and craftsmen. Yamagen Woodworking stands as a testament to this enduring art of woodcraft. Founded in 1921, this family-run shop has been crafting exquisite wood products for over a century, harnessing the abundant natural timber of the region - a tradition that has been carefully preserved and passed down through four generations, each dedicated to maintaining the unique skills and techniques that have become rare in modern Japan.

The current owner is a third-generation craftsman, oversees the selection of each piece of timber, ensuring that only the best is used for their wood products. Their shop is a cultural repository, preserving traditional woodworking techniques that have stood the test of time and every piece displays his deep understanding of wood and meticulous attention to detail.

Visitors to Yamagen Woodworking can expect not just the beautiful products but an immersive experience. If we're lucky we can catch one of the twin-brother proprietors, always more than happy to drink tea and share insights over tea about the intricacies of wood, forestry, their craft, and its significant relationship with the valley's history and Japan's broader socio-economic landscape.

The borthers believe in the beauty of wood and the stories it tells. Visit and explore these stories, one crafted piece at a time.

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Shinanso is a charming hot-spring ryokan nestled quietly along the banks of the Shinano River in a quaint village. The onsen, sourced entirely from natural springs, is affectionately known by locals as the "Silky Beauty Bath." It's prized for its gentle, skin-smoothing waters that seem to warmly embrace you, making it the perfect place to unwind.

As the seasons change, so does the view from the open-air baths. You can soak in the sight of vibrant cherry blossoms in spring or watch the snow gently fall in winter. At Shinanoso, the atmosphere is filled with a sense of nostalgia, with floors softly laid with tatami mats — it feels like coming home. Whether you're seeking solitude or a slice of traditional Japanese ambiance, Shinano Lodge offers a personal retreat into nature’s quiet beauty.

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Some people are born with a unique skill to capture the essence of a moment in song or a painting. While it is not uncommon for a photograph to bring one to tears, it is much less common to find a talent as rare as that of Takahashi Mayumi.

What began as a hobby, her skills as a doll maker are only surpassed by her innate ability to capture the essence and feeling of the life around her. While many think of the trees and nature as the beauty of the countryside, Takahashi's dolls depict the beauty of life that differentiates the village from raw nature, and the slow, yet emotional life of its people from the fast-paced life of urban Japan.

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Despite being a small museum, it is one of the most visited attractions in the city, with people coming from across Japan specifically to visit. It's not uncommon to find elderly Japanese visitors weeping with nostalgia in front of the simple scenes meticulously arranged to evoke the warmth of the irori hearth, but also the memories of that particular cold winter afternoon sharing an orange with grandma, or the rainy afternoon grandpa brought the umbrella to school because you had left it at home.

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With attention to detail that highlights what most of us who live in the countryside tend to overlook, each diorama not only tells an individual story that we can all relate to, but also tells a broader story about life in rural Japan and in the snow country. A story that is fast fading away but still has a place in our hearts.

We will do our best to convey the context of what each piece means and its place in rural life in Japan.

The dolls are amazing! So much attention to detail. I really wish I could buy one to take home.

I didn't realize how impressive it was until we were riding the next day and I started to see things so similar to the scenes the dolls depicted.

I understand why you said Japanese people cry. I don't even share the cultural references, but I could feel the feeling they showed. It made me think of visting my grandmother and I almost cried too.

Wow. That (Mayumi Takahashi) is one talented lady.

I's like a Japanese Normal Rockwell, but somehow better.

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Iiyama is a small country town that has managed to retain its rural characteristics and lifestyle despite the relatively recent addition of a Shinkansen bullet train station, making it extremely accessible at just over two hours from Tokyo.

Known among Japanese bicycle enthusiasts as a hidden gem, Iiyama offers quaint farming hamlets, rice fields, forests, rivers, and mountain views, all within a relaxing twenty-kilometer bike ride on small, less-trafficked roads. Following the Chikuma River, the valley is wide open with expansive views against a mountain backdrop, featuring constantly changing scenery depending on the season.

Starting in spring, meters of snow may still remain on the roadsides, juxtaposed against the cherry blossoms—a rare scene in Japan. As the snow melts and the blossoms fall, the first signs of fresh green undergrowth appear in the form of wild foraged vegetables and young budding leaves on the trees.

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As spring gives way to the rainy season, the green grows lush, and colors deepen while the valley is shrouded in mist. The views (and the promise of a soak in the hot spring) may make you wish the rain will never stop.

As the rainy season ends, the mountainsides are soon awash with yellow nanohana flowers, and the annual nanohana festival draws visitors from across Japan to enjoy the weather, fresh air, and open skies.

With the summer sun also comes the heat, but not without summer breezes not found in the lower, more urban areas of Japan. The rice in the paddies grows taller, lusher, greener. Farmers are busy tending to their fields but usually not too busy to take a break for a chat with riders.

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As summer comes to a close, the rice fields turn from their verdant green to a deep golden hue, and the stalks begin to bow heavily, awaiting their impending harvest. It won't be long until the mountainsides are abuzz with harvester combines, and farmers are hanging the rice on racks as if their goal is to create the perfect photo opportunity of country life in Japan.

Enter Autumn. The rice harvest is finished, and some rice may remain on the racks to dry, but the beauty of the rice fields is replaced by the changing leaves that steal the show. The wide-open expanse of the valley provides a perfect vantage point to see the colors crawl down the mountainside day by day. Into November, it is not uncommon to find a dusting of fresh snow on the mountaintops, even as the trees in the base of the valley are just beginning to turn red.

All the biking was great, but it was really nice having such a long ride with such beautiful scenery that did not involve all the hills and still had almost no cars.

I don't understand why it is such a small city. It's so beautiful. Back home someplace so beautiful would be prime real estate.

Those yelllow (nanohana) flowers were amazing. I took way to many photos there but I just couldn't helpt it.

After Kyoto I thought I was all templed-out, but the ones here were really nice. I chanaged my mind.

The ski jump was really cool! I bet I could do it, but my mom probably wouldn't let me.

I really wonder how much the fire insurance costs for that alter road. They were so intricate and beautiful, but some of those cost more than my car.

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While many Japanese supermarkets resemble modern supermarkets in the West to some degree, there are plenty of small differences and quirks possibly unique to Japan. This supermarket adventure will give you an opportunity to explore as a real shopper as we shop for our night's dinner.

We will give you a shopping list, with Japanese pronunciation with which you will have to ask one of the attendants if you can night find the item yourself, and of course you will be free to challenge yourself with any strange food that you might never have thought you would be brave enough to eat.

The children usually love the candy and snack isle, where they can load up for their rest of the time in Japan, as well as bring unique gifts back to their friends.

Fans of Japanese cooking at home can find a larger variety of miso, soy sauce, etc to take home for your own kitchen.

Beer lovers will be invited to try a blind beer taste test at dinner with brews that I will choose from the many colorful cans and bottles. We can also try some plum wine and or sake, chu-hi, or any other Japanese beverages.

Finally you can spy on the other shoppers' baskets to see what typical shoppers buy for their families. It is very different than the high-class food courts you will find in the department stores in large cities.

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Iiyama, often referred to as “The Kyoto of Northern Nagano,” features numerous small temples scattered throughout the city. Unlike Kyoto, Iiyama maintains its charm as a small country town, with temples only crowded during local festivals. This makes it the perfect place to enjoy peace, tranquility, beauty, and architecture as you stroll or cycle from temple to temple along a well-marked path.

Beyond its temples, Iiyama is one of the three regions in Japan famed for selling and refurbishing elaborately crafted, gold-leafed butsudan altars. These altars are treasured heirlooms, passed down through generations in many Japanese homes. While visiting, take time to admire the exquisite craftsmanship in the specialty shops lining the streets. The knowledgeable shopkeepers can answer questions about the altars or Buddhism, and hands-on craft projects using gold leaf are available for those who are interested.

At the end of Butsudan Alley, you'll find the Takahashi Museum of Doll Art, one of Iiyama's most beloved attractions. The museum showcases beautifully crafted dolls that depict cultural details and nuances, providing insight into the joys and hardships of rural life in Japan.

Whether you opt for a guided tour with a local or choose to explore on your own, Iiyama offers a serene and historically rich experience, ideal for those looking to immerse themselves in the cultural heritage of Northern Nagano.